Epic Day 2 of the overland track - 25.9km

Just after our epic 25.9km walk on day 2, I took this photo. 25.9km, 10 hours, 737m decent, 616m accent, no blisters. Both looking pretty cheery.

 

What I did in the holidays - a walk in the park

Two days after Christmas we drove to Tasmania for a touring/camping holiday. Louka hadn't been to Tasmania since she was in utero: we'd planned to do the Overland Track eight years ago, but I'd fallen pregnant. I think Graham had felt it was unfinished business ever since, so now Louka's nearly eight he thought it was about time we did it.

We took the coastal route to Melbourne, camping at Eurobodalla National Park and Lake Tyers State Park. At Lake Tyers we decided to wash up our dinner things in the sea, so we all went down to the beach, when a strong wind blew up, whipping the sand in our faces and bare legs. It blew Louka away across the dunes, making so much noise she couldn't hear me calling to her. I had to run fast to catch her and lead her safely back to our campsite. But the wind blew the rooftop tent around, rocking the car and making a lot of noise, so we moved the mattress into the back of the car and slept there instead.

Despite the wind, the ferry crossing was pretty calm and we were fast asleep when the announcement came that we had arrived at Devonport and must go to our cars. We sleepily drove off the ferry and found a bakery for breakfast, then headed for Launceston and Cataract Gorge. There Louka was insistent that she go on the chairlift, which Graham wasn't interested in, so we walked across the lake by the suspension bridge then Louka and I took the chairlift back while Graham walked.

The weather that morning was sunny and calm, but by lunchtime it had clouded over and was getting cool, and it stayed cool, with interludes of wind and rain, for the first couple of weeks. We practiced overnight walking by doing the Hazards Beach Circuit at Freycinet National Park (extending to Cooks Beach to camp for the night) which was less pleasant on the return walk as the rain set in.

The wind dissuaded us from visiting Port Arthur: instead we stopped at the Tasmanian Devil Conservation Park where Louka was able to watch devils being fed and to pat kangaroos and a sleepy tawny frogmouth.

It was sunny at Richmond so it was pleasant lying in the sun watching the ducks and ducklings.

It was also sunny when we arrived at Hobart but we did indoor things like MONA and the Museum and Art Gallery.

But next day, Salamanca Market day, was very windy and a number of market stalls were closed (or blown away!). Still, we spent an interesting day at the markets and nearby shops, fending off Louka's demands that we buy just about everything that looked cute or fun, but still spending a fair bit. 

Mt Wellington was very cold and windy, and Mt Field was wet and, according to our campsite neighbours, snowing higher up. 

Montezuma Falls was boggy underfoot, and Graham's constant cry to Louka was "keep out of the mud". There was also a narrow, fragile, swaying suspension bridge that only one adult was allowed to cross at a time. The best view of the falls was from the bridge, but I was a bit too nervous to have a good look.

It was sunny enough that a tiger snake had come out to warm up in the sun.

Cradle Mountain Chateau was a touch of luxury amid the weeks of camping. We wallowed in the spa bath, ate at the very good restaurant and read books from the library. But we also walked around Dove Lake and climbed to Marion's Lookout (a bit of a shock for me, this one, as it was classified as intermediate in difficulty but you had to pull yourself up using chains - Louka kept trying to encourage me here).

Things had changed since our last visit. The visitor centre had a huge carpark and a shuttle bus service to limit traffic into the park itself. We had to queue for quite a while to get on a shuttle bus.

During our stay at the Chateau, the sun came out and it actually became hot. We had a week to fill in before we started the Overland Track, and we headed for the north-west. Louka's favourite thing of the whole holiday was the giant slide into Dismal Swamp.

At last it was time for the big walk. We left our car at Lake St Clair and took a bus to Cradle Valley where we stayed in a bunk room for the night. We set off on the first shuttle bus of the day from the Visitor Centre.

The first part of the track was the same walk we'd done to Marion's Lookout and I was glad to have been forwarned about the climb. We stopped at the top for a snack then continued across the alpine plateau towards our first camp, Waterfall Valley. It was very hot and a long tramp for our unaccustomed legs. Waterfall Valley was a relief as we could put our packs down and spread our sleeping mats in the shade beside a tiny creek. We were the first arrivals so we had the creek to ourselves for an hour or so. While we rested there I saw something emerge from under Graham's sleeping mat: a white-lipped snake. It wriggled out and headed for a large clump of bush. When Graham went to get a closer look, it came back again and slithered under his mat. It peeked out a couple of times, then went back to the bushes. 

Next day's walk was very short and we arrived at Windermere about 11 o'clock. It was still hot and we didn't want to hang around all day so we decided to move on to a place called Frog Flat where camping was allowed. That was a bit of a long walk, but when we arrived at Frog Flat there was nowhere suitable for camping. So before we had a chance to settle down we picked up our packs again and walked on to New Pelion Hut - the longest leg of the whole walk. It was such a relief to see a sign: 10 minutes to New Pelion. It was also lucky that the days are so long in the Tasmanian summer - it didn't get dark till about 9:30. 

We put Graham's pack with the food in the hut while we camped. During the night I heard scuffling sounds in the tent vestibule and looked to see a huge brushtail possum dragging Louka's pack out. It had already removed the rubbish bag from Louka's pack. I couldn't chase it away so I put the rubbish bag inside the tent and Graham hung Louka's pack from a small branch that wouldn't support the possum's weight. I was a bit concerned as the branch was directly above the tent and if the possum tried and failed to climb on it, it would land right on top of us. Fortunately, it didn't.

The next day we were really tired but pretty proud of ourselves (especially Louka) to have reduced our walk from seven days to six. From here on the weather was cooler, which was a relief. We stopped at Pelion Gap for a break but didn't do the side walk to Mt Ossa, despite recommendations from other walkers.

The track tends downhill and Pelion Gap was about the last bit of alpine scenery we saw. From then on we walked mostly through myrtle rainforest, where roots replaced rocks as the most uncomfortable walking surface.

The next day was the day of waterfalls, though these were all side walks off the main track. 

At the third waterfall we stopped to paddle in the water and eat lunch.

The second-last night's "hut", Windy Ridge, was huge and luxurious, so we thought we'd sleep there instead of camping. We shared a room with a family who had two boys of nine (nearly ten) and eleven. All along the track Louka was asked her age: she was the youngest and smallest child we saw doing the walk. 

The next day was the last official leg of the Overland Track, and we arrived at Narcissus Hut around lunchtime to see most of the people we'd met on the track take the ferry to the Lake St Clair visitor centre. It looked a very pleasant and relaxing ending to the walk. 

But Louka was insistent that we had to walk all the way to the visitor centre, so we didn't stop much longer at the far end of the lake. From this point the track deteriorated and we had to make our own way round numerous fallen trees, so even though it was (on average) flat, it was quite tiring. When we reached Echo Point, Louka found the hut smelly and unpleasant. There were no tent platforms so we ended up camping on the beach.

It was cold once the sun had left our side of the lake, but I promised Louka the sun would shine on our side of the lake in the morning. However, the next day dawned cloudy and it was cold for our final walk to the visitor centre. We stayed in our thermals that we'd been wearing as pyjamas.

When we arrived we went straight to the car to change. It was starting to rain. We had a hot drink and chips in the café but Graham decided it was too expensive for a meal.

We'd done it! Louka must be very proud of herself. "Oh no. It was easy" she said.

So what should we do with our last couple of days in Tasmania? Graham was keen to do a tour of Boag's Brewery in Launceston. It was quite interesting (but Louka found the packing plant to be too noisy and cried to go outside) and we got to taste some of their beers and matching cheeses. We visited Bridestowe Lavender Farm, where Louka was disappointed in the drab purple of the fields and only wanted us to buy her a lavender teddy bear. But the café was good.

We passed a goat cheese farm and called in for a taste and a look at the goats. Louka enjoyed this more than the lavender (though the farmer/cheesemaker warned us that they can bite)

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Near Devonport we had a couple of hours to fill so we stopped at the Cherry Shed and bought some pickled cherries and cherry jam to go with the goat cheeses. Then the slow process of boarding the ferry.

At Melbourne we were woken before six o'clock to go to the car. As we drove off the ferry a few drops of rain fell. As we reached the suburbs the rain really set in. We'd thought of camping at Albury Wodonga but it didn't seem much fun in the rain. So we took turns and drove through the day, arriving at home about half past six in the evening. It rained the whole way.